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Article by Sue Comont based on study materials from the Boot and Shoe School

Methods of Shoe Construction Taught at Rushden Boot and Shoe School


Northamptonshire County Council produced a series of illustrated pages showing the different methods of shoe construction for use by students at the Boot and Shoe School in Rushden and other centres in the county. There were a number of different methods for the students to master:-

Illustration of the cemented method of shoe construction
Illustration of the cemented method of shoe construction




The different layers of the shoe in the cemented method are:

Insole

Littleway staples holding upper to insole

Outsole attached by adhesive




Illustration of the Goodyear Welted method of shoe construction
Illustration of the Goodyear Welted method of shoe construction


The layers of the shoe in the Goodyear welted method are:

Insole (note perfectly clear surface)

Horizontal chainstitch seam uniting welt, upper and insole

Welt

Vertical lockstitch seam securing outsole to welt

Outsole

Bottom filling


Illustration of the lockstitch through-sewn welt method of shoe construction
Illustration of the lockstitch through-sewn welt method of shoe construction


The layers of the shoe in the lockstitch through-sewn welt method are:

Insole

Littleway staples holding upper to insole

Lockstitch seam uniting welt, upper and insole

Welt

Outsole

Lockstitch seam securing outsole to welt

Bottom filling



Illustration of the Littleway lockstitch method of shoe construction
Illustration of the Littleway lockstitch method of shoe construction



The layers of the shoe in the Littleway lockstitch method are:

Insole

Littleway staples holding upper to insole

Lockstitch seam uniting outsole, upper and insole

Outsole

Bottom filling



Illustration of the Littleway lasted machine sewn method of shoe construction
Illustration of the Littleway lasted machine sewn method of shoe construction

The layers of the shoe in the machine sewn method of construction are:

Insole

Chainstitch seam uniting outsole, upper and insole

Littleway staples holding upper to insole

Outsole

Bottom filling




Illustration of the machine sewn method of shoe contruction
Illustration of the machine sewn method of shoe contruction



The layers of the shoe in the machine sewn tack lasted method of construction are:

Insole

Chainstitch seam uniting outsole, upper and insole

Lasting tacks holding upper to insole

Outsole

Bottom filling



Illustration of the riveted, screwed and stitched method of shoe construction
Illustration of the riveted, screwed and stitched method of shoe construction
The layers in the riveted, screwed and stitched method of shoe construction are:

Insole

Lasting tacks holding upper to insole

Rivets uniting middlesole, upper and insole

Middlesole

Lockstitch seam securing outsole to middlesole

Outsole

Hobnails

Standard screws uniting outsole, middlesole, upper and insole


Illustration of the riveted method of shoe construction
Illustration of the riveted method of shoe construction


The layers in the riveted method of shoe construction are:

Insole

Lasting tacks holding upper to insole

Outsole

Rivets uniting outsole, upper and insole

Bottom filling



Illustration of the Silhouwelt method of shoe construction
Illustration of the Silhouwelt method of shoe construction



The layers in the silhouwelt method of shoe construction are:

Insole (note perfectly clear surface)

Horizontal chainstitch seam uniting welt, upper and insole

Lightweight welt

Outsole attached by adhesive

Bottom filling



Illustration of the stapled welt method of shoe construction
Illustration of the stapled welt method of shoe construction

The layers in the stapled welt method of shoe construction are:

Insole

Lasting tacks holding upper to insole

Staples and thread uniting welt, upper and insole

Welt

Outsole

Lockstitch seam securing outsole to welt

Bottom filling


Illustration of the turnshoe method of shoe construction
Illustration of the turnshoe method of shoe construction


The layers in the turnshoe method of shoe construction are:

Sole (Note absence of insole)

Chainstitch seam uniting upper and Sole sewn while these are inside out on last

Upper

Lining





Illustration of the Veldtschoen method of shoe construction
Illustration of the Veldtschoen method of shoe construction




The layers in the veldtschoen method of shoe construction are:

Upper

Rand

Lockstitch seam uniting sole, upper and rand

Sole (note absence of insole)



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