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Higham Ferrers Survey, by P Brown in 1965
A Survey of Higham Ferrers - August 1965

This survey has been passed to us by the author who was aged 15 when he completed this project.

Position & Communications
Along the River
Map showing Higham
Higham Ferrers is at the crossing of the A6 and A45, and it is positioned on the east escarpment slope of the valley of the River Nene about five miles north of Wellingborough. 

Distances by Road to Major Towns
Higham Ferrers is approximately:-

65

miles from

London

60

miles from

Birmingham

120

miles from

Manchester

266

miles from

Carlisle

The nearest coast excluding the Wash is between 72 and 84 miles away to the north east and south east respectively.

There is no town bus service but buses travelling from the Kettering direction to the Wellingborough area pass through regularly.

There is no passenger train service except a ‘special’ which runs from Higham to London on August bank holiday and returns to Higham the following weekend.


A Saxon Burgh

Higham Ferrers is both one of the oldest and smallest boroughs in Northamptonshire.

As a Saxon burgh Hecham had strategic importance because of its high and commanding position above a crossing of the Nene.  Being the centre of much commerce it had rough fortifications and these were later developed when William the Conqueror handed the town to William Peverel, an able general, who crowned the hill top with a castle.

Although there may have been two castles at different times, the accent is on peaceful progress with hunting as one of the chief diversions, deer being plentiful in the adjacent forest.  The Ferrers family succeeded to the heritage and the freeing of serfs and their families by William de Ferrers in 1251 High Ham took on the name of Ferrers and the dignity of a seignorial borough.

In or about 1371 was born Henry Chichele whose father, a draper, was several times mayor of the borough.  Henry Chichele became Archbishop of Canterbury in 1413, holding the office for thirty years.

The Archbishop, a “much enduring , solid and competent” man, was buried in Canterbury Cathedral but for Higham Ferrers people the precious memorials are in the town of his birth where out of his affection for the old place he founded a college and a Bede House.

The borough’s first royal charter has been lost but several others have been preserved and the oldest is that of Philip and Mary, granted in 1556.  At that time Higham was granted the right to send one member to Parliament and this right was enjoyed until the Reform Act of 1832

In the Lancastrian era Higham Ferrers was one of the headquarters for the administration of the Duchy of Lancaster.  The manor and some of the farmland still belong to the Monarch in the right of the Duchy but other estates passed successively to the Dacres and Fitzwilliams before returning to local ownership within the last century.

The conservative policy of its landowners is the reason why Higham Ferrers, despite its distinctions and privileges, has made but little material growth leaving the adjoining town of Rushden to outstrip it in nineteenth and twentieth century development.

Some institutions, it is true, have faded or changed and the chief loss is that of the markets and fairs.  Through several centuries the town took pride in and profit from its markets and there was a time when as many as seven fairs would be held within a year.  Cattle and general markets have been held on the market square within living memory of the previous generation and inside the same span of time In the old sense, the fair is extinct but in happy compensation the town has developed and made locally famous an annual Market Day.

On very special days there will be an invitation to the Town Hall and a proud review of th beautifully illuminated Charters, together with the Rolls of the Court of Burgesses.  The Rolls are packed with history and date back to 1275.  They show that of sixty persons involved in the business of the Hundred court on April 26 1349, one third were victims of the black death within the next fortnight.  They record the mayoralties of Thomas Chichele and the admission of Henry Chichele to a burgage on the payment of the usual fee.

Useful Information

Higham is about 250 feet above sea level and covers an area of 1,945 acres.

The population in 1965 is recorded as 3900.

There are 514 council owned dwellings.

Rateable value as 1st April 1965 was £141,446, equivalent to a rate of 11s 6d in the £.

4.45 miles of public road are maintained by the Borough Council.

There are four public houses three telephone kiosks and one set of public conveniences.

Park land amounts to approximately 22 acres.

Electors of the Borough:-

Parliamentary – 2,711

Local Government – 2,729


High Street c1900
High Street c1900
Some of the old buildings that have been rebuilt since,
and the garden has also been built on.
High Street c1965
High Street 1965
There are some new buildings and some old buildings have been rebuilt

Street Plan, Public Buildings & Parks
street plan & parks

Industrial Development & Distribution

Higham probably grew as a leather tanning town due to the abundance in the area of oak trees from which tanning materials were obtained.  There are now many branches of the leather, boot and shoe industry and also of the plastics and rubber industry existing in Higham Ferrers.  The boot and shoe industry has not expanded much in the last few years.  Building firms and service station owners have seen a marginal increase in assets.  Gould, the manufacturers of pet foods and accommodation have been trading in the current location for a little over a year.  Previously the factory had belonged to the Hector Leather Company.


Industrial Distribution
Map of industry
Key to ‘Industrial Distribution’ map

1

Ferrersflex (W W Chamberlain & Sons)

2

White’s Service Stations

 

3

Brown & Stokes Bros Ltd

Builder’s yard

4

Oberman

Electronics and starter gear

5

Blair Petroleum

 

6

E Woodley

Leather curriers and manufacturers

7

Townsend Haulage Company

 

8

Victoria leather Co

Leather curriers and manufacturers

9

C & A E Gould

Pet food and accommodation manufacturers

10

John White

Boot and shoe manufacturer

11

John Orme

Plastics and moulds manufacturer

12

W W Chamberlain

Plastic sheet materials

13

Saxby & Son

Leather curriers

14

Pentelow & Martin

Building Contractors

15

Nene Motors

Car sales and service station

16

Ashford & Campion

Heel manufacturers

17

O Parker

 Blacksmith

18

Ward

Boot and shoe components manufacturer

19

Harris Bros

Leather preparation

20

J Barker

Leather preparation

21

LMP Leathers

Leather preparation

22

Nene Valley Press

Printers

23

T Kilsby

Leather preparation

24

Borough Shoes

Boot and shoe manufacturer

25

Sandal Precision Co Ltd

Engineers and machine tool manufacturer


Land Utilisation

The three fields in the southern most tip of the boundary between grids 982 and 988, south of the 670 east west line, were bought when Chelveston air base was built.  Landing lights were erected in these fields which otherwise contained rough scrub like vegetation.

Map of land utilisation

Vine Hill Farm
Map showing Vine Hill Farm
Robinson's Farm
Map showing Robinson's farm

Vine Hill Farm

Owners:- Mr C Brown and Mr J Brown

Six years ago the farm comprised 210 acres in all.  In the last 6 years this farm has decreased in output and size and now comprises:-

Land use

Acres

Arable

5

Roots

0

Grass

35

Total

40

Livestock

Number

Beef cattle

10

Dairy cattle

30

Calves per year

25

Pigs

40

Sheep

0

Poultry

0

Men regularly employed

1

Men employed at harvest

5

Walnut Tree Farm (Robinson’s Farm)

Owner:- Mr H E Robinson

The location shown constitutes only half of the farm.  The other half, not shown, is situated about half a mile along the Chelveston Road.  The farm currently comprises:-

Land use

Acres

Arable

300

Roots

42

Grass

250

Total

592

Livestock

Number

Beef cattle

70

Dairy cattle

70

Calves per year

50

Pigs

0

Sheep

700

Poultry

3

Men regularly employed

6

Men employed at harvest

2


Historical Monuments
Plan showing historical monuments
The Walnut Tree
The Walnut Tree
The Walnut Tree from the south east showing the
rods which secure the upper branches.

The tree that is reputed to have nuts on all year round.  This tree is over 300 years old and has such a wide upward spread that iron rods, bands and nuts have had to be employed to support the three main branches and prevent them from snapping off due to their weight.

Castle Mound & Moat
Castle Field
A picture showing the Castle Field with the mound to the far right distance and the moat still further
to the right.

The mound and moat are now all that remain of the castle which once stood in Castle Field and which was built just after 1066.  In the sixteenth century stone from Higham Castle was taken by Sir Richard Wingfield to rebuild Kimbolton Castle.  Part of the castle still remained but fell into ruin in the seventeenth century.

Old Cottages & College House
Cottages
The Cottages built in 1709, the Pear Tree
and College House

Chichele College
Chichele College
Chichele College viewed through the college grounds from Saffron Road end

College House

Once called Ivy House was built in 1633 and was the home of the last member of parliament to represent the Borough.

The old college was founded in 1422 by Archbishop Chichele for 8 Canons, 4 clerks, 4 choristers, a song master and a grammar master.  The college had fallen into ruin by 1729.
These cottages arouse interest plainly because of their age but the pear tree which grows along the north and west walls of the northern most cottage was fully grown in 1720, as depicted by a print published in 1720 by John Cole, and is still cropping well today.

Date stones
Map of date stones


Extension of the Borough since 1900

Extension of the Borough since 1900
Map of parish extension

Since 1900 the Borough has extended a great deal.  This is due, as can be seen on the following map, to the erection of large housing estates, Elizabeth Way to Kings Avenue in the north, Tolbar to The Hedges in the south and Wharf Road to River View estate in the west.  The northern part of the western development has been built in the last five years.

Reasons for the increase in housing result from growth in industry, the need for more labour and overspill from other more densely populated areas such as Wolverhampton.  The latter has added to the population within the Queensway and River View estates.  The spinney shown on map 9 has recently disappeared due to development.

The part of the old watercourse to the south still exists from a quarter of the way along Northampton Road continuing to the west.  The remaining part of this watercourse is piped under the road on Higham’s boundary with Rushden, joins up with the stream from Harris’s tannery lake and flows into the Nene about ¾ mile south west of the Wharf bridge.  The northern most watercourse has been piped and drained below ground but the ditch still remains after the right angled bend.  It reappears as a watercourse in Kings Meadow lane and enters the Nene near where the lane crosses the river.

The Church and Bede House
The Church and Bede House


The Church Yard Group

The Church
The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The tower itself belongs to the thirteenth century but the spire which exceeds 170 feet was rebuilt in 1631-32 after having fallen down bringing with it the south side of the tower.

The west front has magnificent features and the recessed double door way is one of the richest examples of old-time craftsmanship in the county.  Iron work on the doors is wrought into scrolls, leaves and flowers.  There are roundels with scenes from the life of Christ carved in bas relief and inside the porch can be seen a curious carving of a man playing a stringed instrument while held in the stocks.  Other odd carvings appear high up on the three-stage tower.  The tower is topped with a parapet of open quatrefoils and flying buttresses pierced with quatrefoils reach towards the octagonal spire.  Battlements, pinnacles and a tracery of windows are also found around the exterior.

The church is of fine proportions and the scene as one stands beneath the tall tower arch is of exquisite carvings in wood, of chapels spaced out beyond pillars of arches and screens

There are seven screens and four of them are very old – as old as the twenty Miserere seats which flank the chancel.

One of the fine east windows is in memory of Chichele but the chief historical records are in brass.  The antiquity of the church is conveyed on a canopied altar tomb upon which the brass has the effigy of an ecclesiastic and the name of Laurence St. Maur, a rector who died in 1337.  Over a large slab in the choir another bras, inscribed in Latin, tells of Richard Wylleys who was warden of Archbishop Chichele’s college in the early part of the sixteenth century.  The church also contains two suits of Cromwellian armour.
The Bede House
The Bede House
Double nave
Double nave viewed from the tower arch

Built in layers of light and dark stone, Chichele’s Bede House has long ceased to hold the twelve poor men and their woman attendant for whose comfort it was bestowed round about 1423.  Soime of the old lockers remain, the impressive roof has been preserved and the fireplace is the original one.  Extensive repairs were made to the Bede House in 1956.  The Bedesmen of olden times did not get the advantage of living in an alms house without giving something in return and according to the regulations they were perhaps too often at church or praying for their benefactor.  Something brighter would be demanded today, even in tradition loving Higham Ferrers.  Bedesmen, however, are still elected and a Bedeswoman still prepares meals for them on St Thomas’s day when they go to church and smoke their pipes in the town hall.  They are all veterans nowadays and their grant is at the old rate of one penny per day with an occasional red starred overcoat and extras at Christmas.

Old Grammar School
The 'Old Grammar School' or Chantry c1900
In the perpendicular style it remains a gem of symmetrical design offering handsome windows, pinnacles, parapets and at the west end there is a statue of Chichele.

All Souls’ Chapel

All Souls Chapel also known at various times as the ‘Old Grammar School’, the ‘Chantry’, and the ‘Jesus Chapel’.

The third partner in the Church yard group is now known as ‘All Souls’ Chapel’.  It is of a somewhat later date than the Bede House and after the suppression of the Chanteries by Henry VIII it became a grammar school and continued in such use for more than 300 years. 

Chantry

The picture above, taken in 1965, shows that the pinnacles have been rebuilt.  The 600 year old cross (in the left foreground) was restored as a memorial to the men who fell in the 1914-18 war.

Chichele House 1965
Chichele House 1965

More Historical Monuments
The Manor House 1965
The Manor House 1965
Market Cross 1965
Market Cross 1965

The Wharf bridge 1900
The Wharf Bridge, looking downstream, with the
'Anchor' public house beyond c1900
The Wharf bridge 1965
The Wharf bridge 1965 with the ruins of the 'Anchor' public houses beyond

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